Glengarriff Woods Nature Reserve
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The name Glengarriff is derived from the Irish Gleann Gairbh which translates as the rough or rugged glen. The setting of Glengarriff Woods Nature Reserve is spectacular, with the woods nestled in the sheltered glen opening out into Glengarriff Harbour. Above the woods rise the Caha Mountains, with their dramatic layers of sheer rock.
Glengarriff Woods Nature Reserve covers some 300ha, with the dominant habitats being old oak woodland and young woodland which is regenerating in areas which have been cleared of non-native conifers over the last few years. The woods form one of the best examples of oceanic sessile oak woodland in Ireland, being rated second only in importance to the Killarney oakwoods. The Nature Reserve is part of the much larger Glengarriff Harbour & Woodlands Special Area of Conservation (SAC).
At one time the woods were part of Lord Bantry's estate, but they were handed over to the State in 1955 for forestry purposes. However in 1991, the woods were designated as a Nature Reserve and the woodland is now owned and managed by NPWS primarily for conservation and amenity purposes.
Back to topMain Gate Lodge,
Glengarriff Woods Nature Reserve,
Glengarriff,
Co. Cork,
Ireland.
Tel: + 353 27 63636
Fax: + 353 27 63637
E-mail: clare.heardman@environ.ie
The Gate Lodge won a prize in the local Tidy Towns awards 17/11/06.
A new path is currently being constructed in the Nature Reserve and is due to be open to the public in spring 2007. Another path, the Fisherman's Path, was substantially upgraded in 2006.
In October and November 2006, Coillte have been felling small block of conifers in the Cooranel area of the Nature Reserve. The cleared areas will be allowed to revert to native woodland.
Work continues on removing Rhododendron. 48.2 ha has been cleared in 2006 under a Forest Service granted-aided Native Woodland Scheme.
A fieldtrip to the Nature Reserve continues to be a regular part of Rural Environmental Protection Scheme courses for farmers in west Cork.
Cork County Council held their first annual Heritage Seminar in Glengarriff on 2nd September 2006.
In July 2006, shire horses from the Trojan Heavy Horse Society, were used to extract mature Western Hemlock that had been planted underneath native oak.
In June 2006, record numbers of Lesser Horseshoe bats were recorded from the roost in the Nature Reserve. Numbers have now increased to 115.
During 2006 12 species of dragonfly were recorded from the new lake, dug in September 2005. The primary reason for creating the lake was to provide additional habitat for the very rare Downy Emerald dragonfly. In June 2006 a male Downy Emerald was seen at the lake.
National Biodiversity Day 22/5/06. Nearly 100 school kids visited the Nature Reserve for a variety of nature activities including bug hunting, water sampling, nature games and a visit to a badger sett.
In May 2006, University College Galway botany students visited on their 3rd annual fieldtrip to Glengarriff.
Getting Here:
The entrance to Glengarriff Woods Nature Reserve is located approximately 1km from Glengarriff village, Co. Cork, on the Kenmare Road (N17). The Nature Reserve features a range of walking trails and picnic areas. There are no toilet facilities.
Admission:
Admission to the Nature Reserve is free and the Reserve is open every day throughout the year.
Maps & Guidebook:
There are two full-colour leaflets with information about Glengarriff Woods Nature Reserve: a) Glengarriff Woods Nature Reserve (features information on the history, flora and fauna of the Reserve) and b) Walking trails in Glengarriff Woods Nature Reserve (describes five walks). The leaflets are available from the Tourist Offices in Glengarriff or from a leaflet box in the Nature Reserve car park.
Climate
The climate of Glengarriff is heavily influenced by its proximity to the Atlantic and the Gulf stream. The warm ocean currents tend to bring relatively mild, damp weather to the south-west. Frost is rare, the mean daily air temperature is 10.5C and the average rainfall is in the region of 2000mm/annum.
Code of Conduct
Warnings
A variety of trails are provided in the Glengarriff Woods Nature Reserve to suit a range of abilities. You can take a gentle amble along the River Walk or make the steep, but rewarding climb up to Lady Bantry's Lookout. Longer options include the Big Meadow circuit, which takes you through woodlands and old grassland, or the more rugged Esknamucky Trail, with its wonderful views out over the trees to the mountains beyond.
The Nature Reserve's main car park is the starting point for all the walks. All walks require strong shoes, with walking boots recommended for the Esknamucky Walk and Lady Bantry's Lookout.
The River Walk
Distance: 1km
Duration: 25 minutes
Standard: easy
Terrain: footpath, mostly level
This is a lovely introduction to Glengarriff Nature Reserve, taking you on a gentle wander through old oak woods and along the banks of the Glengarriff River. Take time to look around and see the ferns, mosses and lichens growing on the old oak trees, this lush growth is typical of the oceanic woodlands in the south-west of Ireland, where the gulf stream ensures the climate is warm and wet. Beneath the oak canopy, the most common tree is the evergreen Holly with its prickly leaves and red berries. Looking down into the river you may be lucky to spot a Freshwater Pearl Mussel. This rare species lives to over 120 years old, making it the longest living animal in Ireland.
Directions: Leaving the main car park cross the footbridge and turn left. Half way round this circular walk, is a footbridge (cross the bridge if you wish to embark on the Big Meadow walk). To continue the River Walk, ignore the bridge and carry straight on until you near the public road. Climb the steps and in a few minutes you'll be back at the car park.
Lady Bantry's Lookout
Distance:1km
Duration: 30 minutes
Standard: moderate
Terrain: steep footpath with steps
This walk is a must on any fine day. The climb up through the woods is steep, but the effort is worth it. From the top there are fantastic panoramic views over Glengarriff to Garinish Island, Whiddy Island and Bantry Bay. To the north you can see the full extent of Glengarriff woodlands, nestling in the rugged glen rimmed by the Caha Mountains.
Directions: From the carpark head south along the track to the bend. Cross the narrow footbridge and head up the footpath, which follows the line of an ancient road down the Beara peninsula. Crossing the public road, the steep ascent begins. As you near the top, one of the last trees on the left is a Strawberry Tree (Arbutus unedo). Lookout for the characteristic red fruit in late summer. To return to the car park retrace your steps.
Big Meadow
Distance:3km
Duration: 90 minutes
Standard: easy
Terrain: footpath, forest track and tarred road. Mostly level.
The unique feature of this walk is the Big Meadow, an area of old grassland that has not been fertilised or ploughed in living memory. There are hundreds of anthills, swathes of wild flowers and several stately oaks. In winter the meadow is grazed by cattle to help stop scrub invading the grassland. After passing through the meadow, you come to an area where conifers have been felled in recent years. These clear-felled areas will be converted into broad-leaved woodland over time.
Directions: Take the River Walk until you reach a footbridge. Cross this bridge, keep left and cross a second bridge. Turn right to reach the Big Meadow. At the end of the meadow turn left through Beech trees and along a forest track. At the end of the forest track turn left onto the tarred public road and follow the road for 1.3km until you reach the sign to Lady Bantry?s Lookout. Turn left to get back to the carpark (or right if you still have the energy to climb up to the viewing point).
Esknamucky
Distance: 2.8km
Duration: 90 minutes
Standard: moderate
Terrain: steep footpath with steps
Otherwise known as the High Walk, this trail climbs up through the woods for some fantastic views over the trees to the mountains beyond. It can be easily combined with the Waterfall Walk.
Directions: Leaving the carpark follow the track north to the public road and turn left. After a short distance you will cross a stone bridge over the Canrooska River. Take the right hand path at the picnic table and follow the path along the river bank to a small waterfall (which is especially impressive after rain). Soon after, the path climbs up to a series of viewing points before descending again to a forest track by a grove of Eucalpytus trees. Turn left off the forest track onto a path that winds its way down to the public road. Cross this road and turn left onto the River Walk and the car park is reached in a few minutes.
Distance: 0.5km
Duration: 15 minutes
Standard: easy
Terrain: gentle slope.
The waterfall, which is especially impressive after rain, is on the Canrooska River which flows down to meet the main Glengarriff River.
Directions: Leaving the car park, follow the track north to the public road and turn left. After a short distance you will cross a stone bridge over the Canrooska River. Take the right hand path at the picnic table and follow the path along the riverbank to a small waterfall. Return by the same path and either take the Esknamucky Trail or return to the car park.
Other places to walk
In West Cork, there are other properties to visit which are under the control of NPWS or OPW.
Garnish (Illnacullin) Island: In Glengarriff Harbour, the famous gardens on Illnacullin are open to the public daily from March 1st to October 31st. A walk around this island, with its wide variety of ornamental plants, makes a pleasant excursion from Glengarriff village.
Lough Hyne & Knockomagh Woods: Just south of Skibbereen is Lough Hyne Marine Nature Reserve, a marine lake connected to the sea by narrow rapids. The Reserve provides habitats for a wide variety of flora and fauna, including many rare and beautiful species. Adjacent to the lough is Knockomagh Woods Reserve, a wooded hill which can be climbed by a winding path. From the summit there are spectacular views out over Lough Hyne, the surrounding countryside and the Atlantic beyond. A Nature Trail leaflet is available from the Heritage Centre in Skibbereen.
There are several picnic areas in Glengarriff Woods with wooden benches and tables. No barbecues are permitted due to the risk of fire.
Educational activities and walks are provided for local schoool and youth groups, primarily by request.
Dry, broad-leaved woodland
Glengarriff woodland consists of a sizeable area of broad-leaved semi-natural woodland comprised of Oak (Quercus petraea) and Holly (Ilex aquifolium), with much Downy Birch (Betula pubescens) and Rowan (Sorbus aucuparia). A little Yew (Taxus baccata) occurs and Strawberry Tree (Arbutus unedo) is scattered through the woods. There is much small-scale variation in the ground flora, including heathy vegetation with Heather (Calluna vulgaris), Great Wood-rush (Luzula sylvatica) and Bilberry (Vaccinium myrtillus). Common woodland herbs include Enchanter's-nightshade (Circaea lutetiana), Irish Spurge (Euphorbia hyberna), Common Cow-wheat (Melampyrum pratense) and Foxglove (Digitalis purpurea). Ferns, include Hard Fern (Blechnum spicant), a characteristic species of old oak woodland, and Hay-scented Buckler Fern (Dryopteris aemula).
A particular feature of this hyper-oceanic woodland is the luxurious growth of mosses, lichens and Polypody Fern (Polypodium vulgare agg.) on the trunks and branches of trees.
Although this is the site of an ancient woodland, it was once part of an estate and some exotic species were also introduced, such as Beech (Fagus sylvatica) and Rhododendron (Rhododendron ponticum). The latter has invaded parts of the woodland posing a serious problem, however, it is being systematically removed.
The oak woodland corresponds with the EU Habitats Directive Annex I habitat, Old Oak Woodland.
Wet, broad-leaved, semi-natural woodland
Wet woodland occurs along parts of the Canrooska and Glengarriff rivers. This is dominated by Willows (mainly Salix cinerea subsp. oleifolia) and Downy Birch, with Alder (Alnus glutinosa) also frequent. A rich herb layer is found, characterised by such species as Bugle (Ajuga reptans), False Brome (Brachypodium sylvaticum), Meadowsweet (Filipendula ulmaria), Remote Sedge (Carex remota), Tufted Hair-grass (Deschampsia caespitosa) and Wood Sanicle (Sanicula europaea). The rivers flood regularly, depositing silt within the woodlands.
Coniferous forest
From the 1950s to 1970s, prior to the Nature Reserve being established, conifers were planted as part of commercial forestry operations. Most have now been removed to allow native woodland to re-establish, but there are small pockets of conifers remaining. The main species present are Sitka Spruce (Picea sitchensis), Scots Pine (Pinus sylvestris), Larch (Larix decidua) and Western Hemlock (Tsuga heterophylla).
The principal river within the site is the Glengarriff River. The Coomarkane River and Canrooska River are tributaries. The river and streams are relativelyfast flowing and stony bottomed. Glengarriff River is unpolluted (Q value 4-5).
The Nature Reserve features an area of open pasture known as the Big Meadow. The grassland grades from wet to dry. The wetter areas feature rushes (Juncus spp.) and the pink and blue hues of Ragged Robin (Lychnis flos-cuculi) and Devil's-bit Scabious (Succisa pratensis).
The drier areas of grassland support numerous ant-hills. The ant-hills provide a microhabitat which supports it's own flora. Species present includeWild Thyme (Thymus praecox) and Yarrow (Achillea millefolium).
There are a few small blanket bogs in the Reserve, with peat reaching a depth of several metres in places. In the past some of the bogs were used for cutting turf to provide fuel for local villagers. However, the bogs are no longer cut and the blanket bog is regenerating. Species present include Ling Heather (Calluna vulgaris), Purple Moor-grass (Molinia caerulea), Bog Myrtle (Myrica gale), Bog Cotton (Eriophorum spp.), Cross-leaved Heath (Erica tetralix), Bell Heather (Erica cinerea), Tormentil (Potentilla erecta), sedges (Carex spp.) and Sphagnum.
Like the old oak trees, many of the rocks are covered in a lush green growth of mosses and lichens. One plant on the rocks that looks like a moss, is in fact the tiny Filmy-fern (Hymenophyllum sp.). Typical plants of the rocks in the woods are St. Patricks Cabbage (Saxifraga spathularis), Kidney-leaved Saxifrage (Saxifraga hirsuta), Goldenrod (Solidago virgaurea) and Navelwort (Umbilicus rupestris).
A feature of the woods are the so-called Hiberno-lusitanian species. These plants have an unusual distribution in that they occur almost exclusively in south-west Ireland and in northern parts of Spain and Portugal. Species in this group include two species of saxifrage, St. Patricks Cabbage (Saxifraga spathularis) and Kidney-leaved Saxifrage (Saxifraga hirsuta), Irish Spurge (Euphorbia hyberna) and Large-flower Butterwort (Pinguicula grandiflora). The latter species is found in boggy areas. Perhaps one of the best known plants in this group is the Strawberry Tree (Arbutus unedo), whose distribution extends to the Mediterranean area. In the woods of Glengarriff it occurs on rocky outcrops, with one located near Lady Bantry's Lookout.
A rare woodland orchid, Narrow-leaved Heleborine (Cephalanthera longifolia) occurs at one location in the woods. This species is so rare that it is listed in the Irish Red Data Book.
The woods are also notable for the presence of several rare species of Myxomycete fungus, namely Echinostelium colliculosum, Cribraria tenella, Arcyria affinis, Stemonitis nigrescens, Symphytocarpus impexus, Fuligo muscorum, Diderma deplanatum and D. lucidum.
The section on habitats refers to many of the commonly found plant species found in the woods.
Bats
At dusk you may see bats flying around the woodland clearings, along the tracks or along the rivers. Seven species of bat have been recorded in the Glengarriff area, the most notable of which is the lesser horseshoe bat. This species is listed in Annex II of the EU Habitats Directive and particularly favours woodland areas in the south-west of Ireland. There are several lesser horseshoe bat roosts in and around the nature reserve, including some winter roosts(hibernacula) that have been specially created for the bats.
Other bat species found in the reserve are Daubenton's bat (seen along the rivers), long-eared bat, common pipistrelle, soprano pipistrelle, Leisler's bat and Natterer's bat.
Other mammals
Otters are common in the area but they are shy and secretive. Their 'sprainting points', where they leave their droppings to mark territories, are found along the riverbank. You might be more likely to see mink, which is a North American species which spread into the area some years ago. Similar in size to the mink, is the pine marten ('tree cat'), distinguishable from the mink by it's creamy yellow bib. Pine martens have been making a comebackin the Reserve in recent years.
Stoats make their homes in walls and usually have a reddish-brown coat and a black tip to their tails. Stoats are highly inquisitive and if you see one it can usually be enticed from cover by making a squeaking noise. Red squirrels are a similar size and colour but have characteristic bushy tails. The squirrels particularly like the areas of the Reserve with Scot's pine or hazel.
Other mammals present in the Reserve include fox, badger, Sika deer, feral goats, hare, hedgehog, wood mouse and bank vole.
Birds
The woodland supports characteristic bird communities, with chaffinch and robin as the most common breeding species. In spring willow warblers and chiffchaffs arrive from Africa to breed in the woods and the population of blackcaps, some of which over-winter in the south-west, is augmented by summer migrants.
Several species of the crow family occur, including the colourful and noisy jay. In autumn this bird feeds on fallen acorns. The late autumn also sees the arrival of migrants from Scandanavia such as fieldfare and redwing, which feast on the woodland berries.
Along the river you will see birds such as wagtails and the unmistakable dipper, with its white bib and bobbing habit as it perches on rocks in mid-stream. You might also be lucky to see a flash of brilliant blue as a kingfisher streaks past.
At dusk look out for the deceptively slow flight of a long-eared owl that nests in the Scot's pine as well as woodcock, mainly a winter visitor, that emerges at nightfall to feed on open grassland. You might also see the ghostly white shape of a barn owl searching for bank voles.
Amphibians
Ponds and pools within the reserve swarm with frog spawn and tadpoles from early spring and the Reserve supports a healthy population of adult frogs.
Invertebrates
Oak has more animal species associated with it than any other tree species and over 200 species of insect inhabit it. The mature oaks of Glengarriff host Ireland's only aboreal ant species (Lasius fulginosis). The arboreal ant colonies are known to persist in association with individual trees for up to a century. Old birch trees too have their own fauna among which is the beautiful black and yellow longhorn beetle (Leptura aurulenta). Both the arboreal ant and the longhorn beetle are representatives of Ireland's much reduced old forest fauna and, together with a species of hoverfly (Microdon analis), demonstrate the ancient origins of these woods.
The small bogs within the Reserve are the habitat for species which only occur where woodland and bog combine. These include Ireland's largest grasshopper (Stethophyma grossa), the grey and orange horse-fly (Hybomitra muhlfeldi) and the largest western European horse-fly (Tabanus sudeticus), which is over 2.5cm long.
The aquatic habitats of the Reserve add to the faunal diversity. The rivers support freshwater pearl mussel (Margaritifera margaritifera), a species listed in Annex II of the EU Habitats Directive. The pearl mussel can live up to 130 years old, making its Ireland?s longest living animal. The larvae of the mussels (glochidia) attach themselves to the gills of salmonid species of fish. The glochidia drop off after several months and settle within gravel beds where the mussels can develop to maturity.
The two lakes associated with the Nature Reserve support a wide range of dragonflies and demoiselles, including the downy emerald dragonfly (Cordulea aenea). Elsewhere in Ireland this species is only known from Killarney.
An invertebrate species with a distribution similar to the Hiberno-lusitanian plant species is the Kerry slug (Geomalacus maculosus). This species is known only from south-western Ireland and the north-western part of the Iberian peninsula. Dark with distinctive cream spots, the slug can be found grazing on lichens on rocks or tree trunks in damp weather. Like the freshwater pearl mussel, the Kerry slug is listed in Annex II of the EU Habitats Directive.
Butterflies recorded in the Nature Reserve include silver-washed fritillary (Argynnis paphia), green hairstreak (Callophrys rubi), purple hairstreak (Quercusia quercus), large heath (Coenonympha tullia), holly blue (Celastrina argiolus) and wood white (Leptidea sinapis).
The rivers of the Reserve contain species such as salmon and trout. Fishing permits are available in the village.
Conservation Management
One of the main management issues is the control of Rhododendron (Rhododendron ponticum). This exotic species was introduced by Lord Bantry in the 1800s and became highly invasive, infesting much of the woodlands. It casts a heavy shade which suppresses native plants and thus prevents woodland regeneration. Since the Nature Reserve was designated in 1991 efforts have been underway to remove the rhododendron and control any reinfestation. To date most of the 300ha Nature Reserve has been cleared of mature rhododendron, but maintenance continues with the removal of seedlings. Other exotic species, such as re-seeding conifers, are also being tackled.
Large areas have been cleared of conifers over the last 10 years. The clear-felled areas are being allowed to revert to broad-leaved woodland through a process of natural regeneration, supplemented in places by the planting of young oak grown from acorns of local provenance and grown on in modules in polytunnels located in Killarney National Park. Regeneration levels are good, due to low levels of grazing animals (in contrast to Killarney National Park where regeneration is poor due to the large numbers of deer, sheep and goats).
Dead wood is a very important woodland component and so any fallen trees are left to rot in situ. If the trees are dangerous (e.g. along roads) the trees are either crowned and some standing dead wood left or log piles created.
Some habitat creation has taken place, with the construction of a new lake in September 2005. The Nature Reserve hosts a very rare dragonfly, the Downy Emerald, and the lake was dug to provide additional habitat for the species. In June 2006, an adult male Downy Emerald was seen at the new lake. Habitat creation has also taken place for lesser horseshoe bats, with a winter roost (hibernacula) being constructed close to an existing summer roost. A number of bat boxes were put up by the Vincent Wildlife Trust and these provide a home for other species of bat.
The unimproved grassland of the Big Meadow was traditionally grazed which helped maintain floral diversity. The lack of fertiliser or ploughing has also allowed the numerous ant-hills to survive. At present the grassland is grazed by a small herd of Kerry cattle, an indigenous breed, that is part of the Killarney National Park organic herd.
At the beginning of the 17th century, the woodlands around Glengarriff were extensive, and it was from the shelter of these that O'Sullivan Bear set out with his followers early in 1602 on his long march to exile in Leitrim after the defeat of the Gaelic army at the Battle of Kinsale.
In the first half of the 18th century timber was coppiced to produce charcoal for the local iron smelter. In 1751 the woods became part of the estate of the White family, owners of Bantry House. In the early 1800s the White's built a thatched hunting lodge in the middle of the woods, established a deer park and employed a gamekeeper. During the White's stewardship it seems the woods were largely protected from exploitation with contemporary records suggesting that the woods were never devastated to the extent that many other woods in Ireland were.
The White family undertook some forestry planting. For example, Scot's pine (imported from Scotland) was planted in 1857 by the 2nd Earl of Bantry and a further 7ha was planted in 1887 by the 4th Earl. Some of the Scot's pine they planted can still be seen today.
In 1955, the state acquired 380ha of the woods for commercial forestry purposes and extensive planting of conifers occurred and many of the oldest oak were felled or ring-barked. In the 1970s, the conservation value of the remaining areas of oak were recognised and the idea of a Nature Reserve mooted. In 1991, 301ha were finally designated as a Nature Reserve, which is now owned and managed by the National Parks & Wildlife Service.
The predominant rock is Old Red Sandstone, which is a sedimentary rock dating from the Devonian period (circa 350 million before present). Evidence of the glacial processes that shaped and formed the now wooded glen, can be seen in the ice-smoothed rocks that occur in the Reserve e.g. on the far bank of the River Walk.
The overlying soils vary from acid brown earths to alluvial brown earths and peat.
The National Parks and Wildlife Service is responsible for the conservation and protection of Ireland's natural heritage. Under the terms of the Wildlife Act 1976 and the Habitat Regulations, it is in the process of establishing a country-wide network of Nature Reserves, Special Areas of Conservation (SACs), Special Protection Areas (SPAs) and Natural Heritage Areas (NHAs).
Glengarriff Woods Nature Reserve was designated in 1991 and is managed and owned by NPWS. The staff based in the Nature Reserve includes a Conservation Ranger and three General Operatives.
See Contact Us for address and contact numbers.